Chemicals are also added to control the setting time (usually lime and such). Reducing the weight of the plaster makes it stick better to a vertical wall without sagging as much. The perlite in that will also be coarser (like a really coarse sand), and is there as both an aggregate as well as a lightener. It's a plaster, but the aggregate will make it harder and stronger like a concrete. The foundation plaster will have a coarser and denser aggregate mixed into it. Like portland cement when making concrete, everything starts with this, but you have little use for it by itself. ![]() This works WAY too fast to be of much use, and is too hard to sand nicely. Scoop from there with my 3" trowel only my hawk, and use my 8" trowel for most work.ĭO NOT USE PLASTER OF PARIS. I'll make mine in a quart take-out soup container, and mix with a silicone spatula. If you have an accurate kitchen scale and a measuring cup, you can work out the plaster/water proportions based on the instructions on the bag (I can look up my recipe if you need), and mix up small batches. The 45 minute works if you want to get more coats in faster (this is what I usually use, because I don't like waiting.) I suggest the 90 minute if you're not used to working fast The perlite basecoat you'll probably just throw out. Anyway, it comes in 18 lb bags, and if you have a plaster home, you'll probably find a use for it eventually. If you make a layer more than 1/8" thick or so, the shrinking is going to cause cracks.Īctual plaster hardly shrinks, is much stronger, does not support mold growth, and is even slightly water resistant. ![]() It shrinks a lot as it dries, and shrinks in all directions. ![]() Joint compound is not much more than wetted talc (with materials added to make it lighter and fluffier).
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